Cupe

i see wut u did etc

ok well i'll setup some settings on the one I linked in the earlier post and we'll sort out some content writers and go from there Yea?

Just about snared an interview with LTJ Bukem but something failed between promo teams in the end

Over the past couple of years more and more DJs have converted to using computers to mix with. It's boring and should be outlawed from all serious clubs immediately. Ok if you're a wedding DJ and have to play shlock and 80s tunes and requests and cannot possibly haul around kilos of records or CDs then I can understand why computer DJing is for you; otherwise, stop it now. And I'll give you 3 good reasons why. Firstly, and most importantly, the sound quality is inferior. Using CDs is bad enough but using tiny MP3 etc files is terrible. There's a reason why MP3s are such small files, and that's because the alogrithm has 'taken out' a lot of the sound. On headphones you don't notice. In a club you do. Nothing sounds better than concord needles on a vinyl. The sound is fresh, organic and full. Especially for the lower frequencies of bass found commonly in techno and drum and bass. And furthermore, sound is transmitted nearly instantaneously through needles whereas there's often a lag with computers, particularly old computers with small rams. Secondly, it ruins the visual appeal. Nothing beats seeing a DJ cueing up the vinyl and dropping in the next tune in just the right place and really hearing it. Also watching a DJ show his or her mastery by scratching vinyl is mesmerizing. It makes the DJ a musician and an awesome spectacle. It's live and always original because no 2 mixes or scratches can ever be exactly the same. With a computer they can be and that is boring and not worth paying to watch. I hate DJs who use serato and so give the impression they are playing vinyl. Watch them carefully - they never change the vinyl. It's window dressing. And thirdly, computer mixing is often cheating. The computer programs have beat counters, analytics and even beat matching to do all the hard work for the DJ. Anybody can quickly sound as good as Carl Cox with some of the computer programs on the market, which is an insult to Carl Cox who is a god on the decks. Luckily British clubs are not falling for this second rate rubbish and the DJs lose respect for pulling out their apple computers. Unfortunately, in Tokyo it's becoming more and more common for DJs to bore the crowd with their heads stuck in their computer screens. Even Tokyo based DJs are using computers - I presume because they aren't competent with vinyl or are too lazy to bring their record bags. I saw DJ Marky in womb last year and he broke my heart when he played 99% of his set using serato. Holding a deck upside down and scratching is farcical and belongs in a circus and not on the dance floor. That same year and again in Womb in Tokyo, I saw Ed Rush and Optical use 2 CDs all night long. It was pretty much impossible to hear the mixes. We the consumers who fork out big money to see these 'stars' deserve a lot better. So if you want to be a DJ or take up mixing for a hobby then please buy decks and good needles and do it properly. Besides computers crash and then you'll look like a right twit while silence pervades the room while you re-boot. As a footnote, my mate saw LTJ Bukem in Argentina the other day. He played a vinyl set - not a CD or computer in sight. Good to see the pioneers still holding true to their roots.

^ that is all ^ that is all ^^^ that is fucking all ^^^ that is fucking all

^ that is all ^ that is all

lol tomy +rep'd

ok how would you like to be my manager on the project

shivermetimbers.torrent

thread toppling jerkfags

um lol. what the fuck http://www.musicmixing.net/how_to_mix_songs.html

duh

pretend it's a racing stripe but seriously take it to a nerd to get looked at

wtf next time u play in the valley tell me tomy i'll come down

1000000000 db

get club edits and you'll have long outro's to mix in the next track with brah

what if u rip from youtube 720p?

+rep'd good read, good story

cognarts was around way before that pretty sure because of hobberz

lul, do you need the text from the blog so u can start a thread?

I decided against using this. Blogs have been disabled. You can start your own threads for things you would of blogged. Forgot this is ausdjforums and not ausdjblogs

Amplifier Efficiency I have sensed a fair amount of confusion (based on e-mail from readers) concerning amplifier efficiency. In general, efficiency of a device is defined as the amount of useful output power divided by the amount of required input power. The maximum efficiency any circuit can have is 100%, for amplifiers this value can never be met. In general, audio amplifiers are not particularly efficient. Class A amplifiers are the least efficient. Class AB amplifiers are better, with a maximum theoretical efficiency of around 78%. Well designed Class D amplifiers can approach 95%, a very good figure! High efficiency means less power is wasted in the form of heat. This means smaller heat sinks, less weight, and more output for a given input. However, there is more to this discussion than the simple numbers just given. Why are amplifiers not 100% efficient? For an amplifier to be 100% efficient, all of the AC power taken from the wall outlet would have to end up as useful output (power available to drive a speaker). This can never be realized because some power will always be required by the input stage (although this is fairly small). In most designs, the bulk of the power loss occurs in the output stage of the amplifier. This article can only go into a very high level explanation…. Basically, the output devices (transistors) in an output stage of most amplifiers act like variable resistors, kind of like a water faucet that varies flow rate in accordance with the music (class D is different as we have discussed previously). Remember we talked about rail voltages of a power supply? Basically, this voltage is dropped across the output device and the load (speaker) depending on the level of the output signal at any given moment. At the instant when the volume is high, there is relatively little voltage drop across the output device (but a lot of current flowing through it). When the output is small, there is a large drop across the output device (but very little current flow). Ohm’s law dictates how things work here: power = voltage times current = current squared times resistance. Basically, any time there is a significant current flowing and a significant voltage drop across a device, heat will result. So, to make an efficient amplifier, one needs to find a way to make the output device not dissipate much power. Class A amplifiers are bad because there is almost always a lot of voltage drop AND current flowing through the output device. Class AB is better but it still has the same basic problem. Class D amps are very efficient because the output device spends very little time in a state where there is both a significant voltage drop on the device and a large current simultaneously flowing through it. Basically, Class D amplifiers operate their output devices as switches, where the other amplifier classes operate the output devices in the linear mode, and this will inevitably lead to power loss in the device. There is a point I want to make about amplifier efficiency that many people fail to properly understand. I’ll use the common class AB amp for this discussion. Amplifiers of class AB are said to have an efficiency of around 75%. The key here is to understand that this is the maximum possible efficiency! This efficiency (for a well designed unit) can only be met under certain operating conditions! In practice, with real music signals, the actual efficiency will be significantly less than the maximum theoretical value. In actuality, the efficiency of an amplifier is different at every moment in time (for a time varying signal like music). The efficiency of a class AB amp is best when the amplifier is putting out a signal just at the threshold of clipping! This is because at that instant the current through the output device is high, but the voltage drop across it is low. The efficiency of the amplifier at lower operating levels is less than the maximum efficiency. So, in truth it is difficult to say that an amplifier has a specific efficiency as that value will depend on what the nature of the output signal is. However, for a given signal, amplifiers of different classes and the same output rating clearly have different efficiencies. The clear standout for efficiency in audio amplifiers is held by the Class D design (because these amplifiers operate the output devices as switches, meaning very little power is ever dissipated in the output devices). Amplifier efficiency is generally assumed to be stated for resistive loads. Speakers are reactive loads, meaning they are basically a resistance with the added characteristic of inductance or capacitance (one or the other at any given time). A speaker will never be totally reactive (meaning it will never be totally inductive or total capacitive, it will always have a resistive component). Ideal inductors and capacitors dissipate no power (these devices store electrical energy), however they DO allow current to flow. For illustrative purposes, let’s say that we have a very strange speaker that is 8 ohms inductive (100% inductive). If we hook this up to an amplifier will current flow (assuming the volume is up)? Yes! However, the inductor cannot dissipate any power (and hence this speaker makes no sound). Ohm’s law dictates how things work here. Basically, we will have the same current flowing through an 8 ohm inductor as would be in an 8 ohm speaker, HOWEVER, the current through the inductor has a different phase than it would through a resistive load. Ohms law states that the current around any circuit loop is the same in each component and the voltage drops in the loop must sum to zero. So, we have voltage drop across the inductor and current flowing through it, however because the current and voltage are 90 degrees out of phase there IS NO POWER dissipated by the inductor. HOWEVER, there IS power being dissipated in the output device of the amplifier EVEN THOUGH WE HAVE NO POWER BEING DISSPATED IN THE INDUCTOR (the strange speaker in this example)! What I am trying to explain in this long winded section is that inductive (and capacitive) loads can place added demands on the output devices of amplifiers! As I mentioned, no real speaker will be 100% inductive (or capacitive), but under certain conditions (conditions that are not uncommon in actual use) speakers can have an inductive (or capacitive) component that can definitely add to the stress on the output device of an amplifier. Reactive loads will basically increase the power dissipated in the output device in an amplifier. The result is that heat sinks must be larger, devices need to have higher ratings than what otherwise might at first seem adequate. If you take nothing else away from this section, realize that (a) reactive loads (speakers) can reduce the efficiency of amplifiers and they can cause added stress to the output stage of amplifiers (they can make your amp overheat prematurely). Now consider this: most speakers are only about 5% efficient! So we have an amp that might be 50% efficient and then that power is going to a speaker that is only 5% efficient! Suffice to say that the vast majority of AC power that amp takes from the wall socket never gets converted to useful sound (almost all of it ends up as heat)! Maximum Power Transfer Theory and Efficiency Note: This section is intended primarily for engineering students or those with a deeper technical interest. The purpose is to provide a "real world" explanation of the Maximum Power Transfer theory and why it is NOT used in amplifiers designed for stereo systems! Second year electrical engineering students have most likely covered the theory that basically states "maximum power is transferred to a load when the output impedance of the source is identical ("matched") to that of the load". The connection that some people fail to make is that maximum power transfer doesn’t mean maximum efficiency! At best, if the maximum power transfer theory is used, efficiency will be only 50% (not so good). In other words, if an amplifier is designed for maximum power transfer to a load, fully one half of the energy required by the amplifier's output stage will be dissipated (i.e. wasted) in the source impedance! For amplifiers used in stereo systems (audio amplifiers), the goal is to have the amplifier output impedance be as low as possible (ideally zero, but this is never achieved). If an amplifier were to have an output impedance of 8 ohms (a common value for speakers), maximum power transfer would occur. However two other bad things result. First, the efficiency of the amplifier is at best only 50%, meaning that the amplifier will generate a lot of heat. Second, the amplifier/speaker system will have a terrible damping factor. Damping factor basically refers to the ratio of speaker impedance to amplifier output impedance; high numbers are better. A low damping factor will not damage anything but it will tend louse up the sound considerably. To maintain a "tight" sound, it is important to have the output impedance of the amplifier be as low as possible with respect to the speaker. Otherwise, the amplifier will not have as much control over the speaker. Speakers, being highly complicated electromechanical devices with reactive impedance properties, behave better when they are connected to an amplifier with an extremely low output impedance. Speakers tend to electrically "buck and kick" an amplifier when in operation; the best way to tame this behavior is to put a heavy "load" (i.e. an amp with a very low output impedance) on the speaker! An amplifier/speaker combination with a low damping factor will tend to have a "boomier" sound and poorer transient response, (such a sound is not always bad, some people actually prefer it!). There is a quick test anyone can do to get a feel for what affect the damping factor has on a speaker system. Disconnect your speaker system from the amplifier, remove the grille, and gently tap on the woofer cone. You will hear a low frequency sound, this is the "resonance frequency" of the system. Note the characteristic if the sound as you tap the cone. Now, connect the speaker up to the amplifier, and turn the amplifier ON (but leave the volume at zero). Now tap on the speaker cone as before. You will observe that the sound has changed considerably. The sound will be much "tighter", and the cone will seem harder to move. This is because the amplifier has in effect "loaded" the speaker system. The case where the speaker was disconnected from the amplifier represents the worse possible damping factor (zero). Anyway, back to the topic of this section. Although there are many applications where maximum power transfer is desired, audio amplifiers are not one of them. Audio amplifiers generally deal with a considerable amount of power, so high efficiency is a more important design consideration.. In addition, to maintain high quality audio, an audio amplifier ideally has an output impedance which is VERY small compared to the impedance of the speaker it will be driving. Note that using 4 ohm speakers on an amplifier will degrade the damping factor as compared to using 8 ohm speakers. AC Power Requirements On the back of most amplifiers you will see a panel that says (for example) 120 VAC 300 W. Does this mean that the amplifier is a 300 watt amp? NO! This wattage rating refers to the amount of power that the amplifier requires from the AC wall outlet. The AC wattage rating will only give you a general clue about the wattage rating of the amplifier (wattage rating to the speakers), however because of the different ways these ratings are specified you cannot be sure of the exact rating. One thing is true: no amplifier can put out more power than it takes in. Most of the time the AC wattage rating is considerably more than the speaker power rating. However, you must consider these AC wattage ratings only as a guide. The amount of AC power the amplifier takes from the wall depends on how loud the amplifier is playing, the type of signal being played (music will in general take less power than test tones when the amp is at the clipping threshold). Here’s a quandary. I got a question from someone who said that his amplifier was rated for 800 watts per channel, and the current requirement listed on the unit was 12 amps. So, this person took the 12 A and multiplied it by 120 (the voltage) to figure the power, in this case 12x120 = 1440. He asked, “How can my amp put out 1600W if it only takes 1440W from the AC line? A good question, and here’s the answer: the 12A rating was an RMS current rating for when the amplifier was being used with music signals (at full output). Because music signals are “easier” to reproduce than test tones (in terms of demand on the power supply), the RMS current required is not as much as if the amp was being used with test tones. Had this amplifier been driven to full 1600W output using a sine wave, there is no question that the AC line current required would be quite a bit more than 12A. If we assume 70% efficiency, the current requirement from the AC outlet when the amp is being used with full power sine waves would have been more like 19A. Unless you run a test lab, you are not likely to be playing test tones (sine waves) at the full output of the amp’s capability. The vendor of this amplifier specified the AC line current requirement the when the amp is at full useable output with music signals. So, the point is, use the AC line current (or wattage rating) only as a general guide. The AC power required from the wall outlet will always be more than what is being delivered to the speakers, and in reality it will constantly vary as the signals changes. If you had an AC current meter tied into the AC line that feeds your amp, you’d see the current reading jumping around more or less the same as you see the signal varying on power meters (ones that monitor power to the speakers).

bump

didn't read thread but garts on job